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The Food Chain
Croffle, anyone?
The Food Chain
Dec 5, 2024

Crookie, anyone? Cronut, croffle?

Ruth Alexander looks at the rise of the dessert café and the extraordinary creations it’s spawned.

She visits one such café in Manchester with roses adorning the walls, and chocolate adorning almost everything else.

And speaks to a food blogger in Dubai and a café owner in USA about the latest trends and the businesses who have been serving puddings for decades.

Find out what the latest fashions are in dessert, and how quickly a new invention can sweep the world.

Going out for pudding has become the thing to do in many places and the more extravagant your order, the better.

In fact, going out for pudding has never been so fashionable – or has it?

Presenter: Ruth Alexander

Producers: Rumella Dasgupta and Hannah Bewley

(Image: A selection of sweet desserts. Credit: BBC)

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Is kitchen culture changing?

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In recent weeks, one of the restaurant world’s most influential figures stepped down amid allegations about his conduct at work. It’s been widely reported that former employees accused René Redzepi, founder of Copenhagen’s Noma, of creating a toxic working environment involving verbal and physical abuse. Redzepi has since apologised publicly, saying he has worked to change.

Ruth Alexander uses this moment as a starting point to explore a broader question: what is, and what should be, the culture inside professional kitchens?

For many chefs, stories of gruelling hours, intense pressure and explosive tempers have long been part of the industry. But are those conditions still the norm today, or is a different kind of kitchen culture beginning to take shape?

Ruth is joined by three chefs from different generations and parts of the world, each reflecting on their own experiences of coming up in the industry, and how those experiences have shaped the way they run their kitchens now.

Jun Tanaka, chef-owner of Michelin-starred restaurant The Ninth in London, looks back on starting out more than three decades ago. Preeti Mistry, executive chef at Silver Oak in California, shares her perspective after 25 years in the industry. And Manon Fleury, head chef at Datil in Paris and co-founder of an organisation working to prevent violence in kitchens, explains why she believes change is both necessary and possible.

They discuss whether the old hierarchies and harsh environments are being left behind, what a healthier kitchen culture could look like, and what still needs to change.

If you would like to get in touch with the show, please email: [email protected]

Producer: Izzy Greenfield Sound engineer: Annie Gardiner Image: credit - getty


26min 29sec




Croffle, anyone?

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